![\"samet](\"http:\/\/acilbulten.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/Samet-Bayram-1024x1024.jpg\")
<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nK\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck ya\u015flarda, ailesinin etkisiyle gezme tutkunu olan, lise y\u0131llar\u0131nda neredeyse t\u00fcm T\u00fcrkiye\u2019yi gezmi\u015f, 2010 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Celal Bayar \u00dcniversitesi T\u0131p Fak\u00fcltesi\u2019ni, yeni yerler g\u00f6rebilmek u\u011fruna yar\u0131da b\u0131rak\u0131p seyahate \u00e7\u0131kan tam bir gezme ba\u011f\u0131ml\u0131s\u0131. 2019 y\u0131l\u0131nda kat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00dcmraniye Acil Ailesi\u2019nin en yeni fertlerinden biri olup, uzman oldu\u011fu g\u00fcn; uzunca bir d\u00fcnya turuna \u00e7\u0131kman\u0131n hayallerini kurmaktad\u0131r. Ans\u0131z\u0131n bir da\u011f ba\u015f\u0131nda ve ya g\u00f6l kenar\u0131nda hatta Alp Da\u011flar\u0131nda \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131 ve kamp sandalyesiyle denk gelebilece\u011finiz hem maceraperest hem de acilsever.<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 <\/p>\n\n\n\n Norve\u00e7, fiyortlar\u0131 ile, muhte\u015fem do\u011fas\u0131 ile uzun y\u0131llar boyu beni kendine \u00e7ekmi\u015ftir. 2017 yaz\u0131nda Norve\u00e7\u2019in \u00fcnl\u00fc kayalar\u0131na harika bir tur planlam\u0131\u015f iken, son anda gidememi\u015f olmam ise i\u00e7imi burkmu\u015f ve oraya gitmek i\u00e7in beni daha da kam\u00e7\u0131lam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Ve Nihayet o g\u00fcn, yani Eyl\u00fcl 2019 tarihine gelindi\u011finde hayallerime kavu\u015fmam, Norve\u00e7\u2019in \u00fcnl\u00fc kayalar\u0131 Reinebringen, Trolltunga ve Preikestolen\u2019<\/em><\/strong>e \u00e7\u0131kmam\u0131n verdi\u011fi hissi ne kadar tarif etsem azd\u0131r\u2026 \u0130\u015fte bu say\u0131daki \u201cDa\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k Rotalar\u0131\u201d yaz\u0131mda bu m\u00fcthi\u015f rotadan bahsetmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015faca\u011f\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n Sonda s\u00f6yleyece\u011fimi ba\u015fta s\u00f6ylemi\u015f olay\u0131m\u2026 Bir\u00e7ok insan\u0131n deniz yoluyla gezdi\u011fi fiyortlar\u0131 yukar\u0131dan g\u00f6rmenin tad\u0131 paha bi\u00e7ilemez !!! <\/p>\n\n\n\n Gelelim rotan\u0131n ilk g\u00fcnlerine\u2026 Yola \u00e7\u0131karken akl\u0131mda hep bamba\u015fka bir seyahat ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirip, fiyort tepelerinde kamp kurup, bu \u00e7ok \u00f6zel manzaral\u0131 yerlerde konaklamak ve uzunca vakit ge\u00e7irmek vard\u0131. Bir \u201cK\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 Alan\u201d n\u00f6betinin sabah\u0131nda kendimi Oslo\u2019 da pasaport g\u00f6revlisinin konaklamay\u0131 nerede yapacaks\u0131n\u0131z sorusuyla kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya buldum. Elimde tuttu\u011fum kamp mat\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6stererek benim asl\u0131nda hi\u00e7 otel rezervasyonum yok \u00e7ad\u0131rda kalaca\u011f\u0131m dedim ve o anda g\u00f6revliden gelen Norve\u00e7\u2019in muhte\u015fem do\u011fas\u0131 i\u00e7in \u00e7ok do\u011fru bir tercih yapm\u0131\u015fs\u0131n\u0131z keyfini \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131n cevab\u0131yla Kuzey Avrupa medeniyetini sonuna kadar hissettim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Reine k\u00f6y\u00fc<\/em><\/strong> Norve\u00e7\u2019in kuzeyinde Lofoten Adalar\u0131\u2019n\u0131n en g\u00fczel noktalar\u0131ndan biri ve seyahatimin ilk dura\u011f\u0131yd\u0131. Reine k\u00f6y\u00fcn\u00fcn hemen \u00fczerinde yer alan Reinebringen ad\u0131ndaki kayal\u0131ksa y\u0131llar \u00f6nce bir seyahat sayfas\u0131nda g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm adeta a\u015f\u0131k oldu\u011fum ve hep ziyaret etmeyi planlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m yerdi ve tabi rotam\u0131n ilk noktas\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Lofoten<\/em><\/strong> adalar\u0131 Norve\u00e7\u2019in kuzeyinde ger\u00e7ek bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 Viking hayat\u0131n\u0131 sonuna kadar hissedebildi\u011fim \u00e7ok \u00f6zel bir yer oldu benim i\u00e7in. Ancak, Lofoten adalar\u0131na ula\u015fmak biraz da zahmetliydi. \u015e\u00f6yle ki, Oslo\u2019dan Bodo \u015fehrine trenle veya u\u00e7akla gelip oradan Bodo Moskenes vapuruyla Lofoten adalar\u0131ndaki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck k\u00f6y Moskones\u2019e var\u0131labilir veya Oslo\u2019dan Harstad-Narvik havaliman\u0131na u\u00e7akla gelinebilir se de; ben bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l\u0131kla u\u011fra\u015fan Norve\u00e7 k\u00f6ylerini yak\u0131ndan g\u00f6rebilmek i\u00e7in u\u00e7akla Harstad-Narvik havaliman\u0131na gelmeyi tercih ettim. Buradan yakla\u015f\u0131k 280 km uzakl\u0131kta Lofoten tak\u0131m adalar\u0131n\u0131n son par\u00e7as\u0131nda bulunan Reine k\u00f6y\u00fcne ula\u015fmak i\u00e7in ise toplu ta\u015f\u0131ma dahil bir s\u00fcr\u00fc se\u00e7enek mevcuttu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Norve\u00e7\u2019e gelmeden \u00f6nce herkesten tek bir soru duymu\u015ftum, kuzey \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rebilecek misin? Da\u011flara, g\u00fczel manzaralara olan sevgimizden mi bilinmez ama, kuzey \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131 en ufak bir ilgim yoktu. Bir ak\u015fam \u00fcst\u00fc Reine k\u00f6y\u00fcne her \u015feyden habersiz vard\u0131\u011f\u0131mda \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 kurabilecek g\u00fczel bir yer araman\u0131n derdindeydim. En sonunda k\u00f6y\u00fc kar\u015f\u0131dan g\u00f6ren g\u00fczel bir alana \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 kurdum. Havan\u0131n kararmas\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan ellerinde kameralarla her yerde insanlar beklemeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Akl\u0131mdansa \u2018eyl\u00fcl ay\u0131nda kuzey \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmek mi: imkans\u0131z\u2019 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnceleri ge\u00e7iyordu. Ard\u0131ndan tepemde \u0131\u015f\u0131k huzmeleri belirmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. K\u0131sa s\u00fcre i\u00e7inde bu \u0131\u015f\u0131klar artarak adeta bir \u0131\u015f\u0131k \u015fovuna d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcler. Etraftan \u00e7\u0131\u011fl\u0131klar alk\u0131\u015flar y\u00fckseliyordu i\u015fte o anda anlad\u0131m kuzey \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131n dans \u015fovu ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Uzun uzun izledim \u00f6nce b\u00fcy\u00fclenmi\u015ftim adeta sonras\u0131nda kamerama sar\u0131ld\u0131m ve foto\u011fraflamaya ba\u015flad\u0131m. Foto\u011fraflad\u0131m dedi\u011fime bakmay\u0131n asl\u0131nda gece uzun pozlama foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekiminde \u00e7ok \u00e7\u00f6mezdim. Amat\u00f6r birka\u00e7 foto\u011fraf yakalayabildim sadece. Bir mumun s\u00f6nmesini and\u0131r\u0131r \u015fekilde yava\u015f yava\u015f s\u00f6nd\u00fc gitti kuzey \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131 ve ben de \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131mda uykuya dald\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sabah erken saatlerde uyand\u0131\u011f\u0131mda, Reine k\u00f6y\u00fc\u2019n\u00fcn sessizli\u011fi beni \u00f6yle derinden etkiledi ki,\u00a0 hissetti\u011fim huzurdan orada, \u201co an \u00f6lesim\u201d geldi. (mecaz tabi ?)<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n Bizim gibi s\u00fcrekli kaotik ortamda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan insanlar i\u00e7in bu huzur ne kadar de\u011ferlidir hepimiz biliriz zira\u2026 S\u0131rt\u0131mdaki 17 kilograml\u0131k \u00e7antamla yava\u015ftan Reinebringen yoluna koyuldum. K\u00f6yden \u00e7\u0131kan deniz kenar\u0131nda ilerleyen patikadan yava\u015f yava\u015f y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fcp, t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f merdivenlerini buldum ve usulca y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flad\u0131m. \u00d6nce, merdivenler yava\u015f yava\u015f orman i\u00e7inde y\u00fckselmeye ba\u015flad\u0131; ard\u0131ndan, orman\u0131 terk etmeye ba\u015flad\u0131k.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 448 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011findeki Reinebringen<\/strong>\u2019e yakla\u015f\u0131rken merdivenler kaybolmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131, son 50 metrelik t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f\u0131 \u00e7amurdan dolay\u0131, neredeyse bir elimle yerden tutunarak tamamlad\u0131m. 1 kilometre 448 metrelik t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f\u0131 tamamlamam s\u0131rt\u0131mdaki a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131n etkisiyle yakla\u015f\u0131k 1.5 saat kadar s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u2026 Ancak sonunda g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm manzara, paha bi\u00e7ilemezdi. Y\u0131llard\u0131r hayalini kurdu\u011fum manzara tam da kar\u015f\u0131mdayd\u0131 art\u0131k. Bu \u00e7ok \u00f6zel Norve\u00e7 fiyort manzaras\u0131, g\u00f6zlerimi kama\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yordu\u2026 \u0130\u015fte benim i\u00e7in \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck, bu manzarayd\u0131!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Seyre doyduktan sonra, yava\u015f\u00e7a inmeye ba\u015flad\u0131m tepeden, 45 dakika kadar sonra a\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya, d\u00fczl\u00fc\u011fe indim ve 4 km \u00f6tedeki Moskenes k\u00f6y\u00fc\u2019ne do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flad\u0131m. Moskenes de, ufac\u0131k bir k\u00f6yd\u00fc ve sadece feribot iskelesi mevcuttu. Bir s\u00fcre bekledikten sonra gelen Moskenes-Bodo feribotuna biletini 227 Norve\u00e7 kronu (yakla\u015f\u0131k 150 TL) para \u00f6deyerek ald\u0131m. Yeri gelmi\u015fken, feribot biletleri yayalar i\u00e7in sadece ama sadece bini\u015fte sat\u0131n al\u0131nabiliyor\u2026 Yakla\u015f\u0131k 3,5 saatlik feribot yolculu\u011fundan sonra Bodo\u2019ya vard\u0131m ve oradan u\u00e7akla Bergen\u2019e – Norve\u00e7\u2019in eski ba\u015fkentine- \u015fimdilerin ise Oslo\u2019dan sonraki ikinci b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehrine vard\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Eskiden trol\u2019lerin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131na inan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan m\u0131d\u0131r bilmiyorum ama trol dili anlam\u0131na gelen Trolltunga son d\u00f6nemde Norve\u00e7\u2019in en pop\u00fcler yerlerinden biri haline gelmi\u015ftir. Buras\u0131, uzun zamand\u0131r hayallerimin bir par\u00e7as\u0131yd\u0131 diyebilirim. Size tavsiyem, Bergen\u2019den otob\u00fcsle Odda kasabas\u0131na ula\u015f\u0131p oradan Tyssedal k\u00f6y\u00fcn\u00fc ge\u00e7ip Skjeggedal park alan\u0131na vararak t\u0131rman\u0131\u015fa ba\u015flaman\u0131z. Bu b\u00f6lgede 3 adet araba park alan\u0131 mevcut, Park 1 Tyssedal k\u00f6y\u00fcn\u00fcn hemen \u00fczerinde. B\u00fcy\u00fck ara\u00e7lar sadece bu b\u00f6lgeye park edebiliyor. Park 2 yani Skjeggedal park alan\u0131ysa ana park yeri\u2026 Park 3 ise, da\u011f\u0131n yamac\u0131nda a\u015fa\u011f\u0131daki d\u00fczl\u00fckteki ana park alan\u0131ndan 3 kilometre y\u00fckseklikte yer almakta. E\u011fer arabay\u0131 buraya park ederseniz, yolunuzu \u00e7ok kolayla\u015ft\u0131ran bir yer oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yleyebilirim. Yaln\u0131z, bu park alan\u0131na sadece \u00f6nceden rezervasyon yapan 30 araba park edebiliyor ve g\u00fcnl\u00fck park \u00fccreti 600 Norve\u00e7 kronu, yakla\u015f\u0131k 380 T\u00fcrk liras\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ne ise, ben bir \u00f6\u011flen hafif ya\u011fan ya\u011fmur alt\u0131nda Tyssedal<\/strong> k\u00f6y\u00fcne vard\u0131m. Marketten yiyecek stoklar\u0131m\u0131 tamamlad\u0131ktan sonra yola koyulmaya haz\u0131rd\u0131m. Tyssedal k\u00f6y\u00fcnden Skjeggedal<\/strong>\u2019daki park 2 alan\u0131na yakla\u015f\u0131k 7 kilometrelik yol vard\u0131 \u00f6n\u00fcmde ve yolun ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131nda bu kadar y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fcp yorulmak istemiyordum. Tyssedal k\u00f6y\u00fcnden yava\u015f\u00e7a y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015fken gelen ilk araca otostop \u00e7ekip park 2 alan\u0131na vard\u0131m. Park 2 alan\u0131nda se\u00e7mem gereken iki yol mevcuttu; e\u011fer orman\u0131n i\u00e7inden ba\u015flayan patikay\u0131 takip edersem, Trolltunga<\/strong> 11 km uzakl\u0131ktayd\u0131; e\u011fer Park 2 den Park 3 e kadar olan asfalt yolu takip ederek ba\u015flarsam Trolltunga 14 km uzakl\u0131kta idi. Zor olan ancak daha g\u00fczel oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm orman patikas\u0131n\u0131 se\u00e7tim ve usulca ya\u011fmur alt\u0131nda patikada y\u00fckselmeye ba\u015flad\u0131m. \u0130lk 1 km\u2019lik dik patikay\u0131 t\u0131rmanmam yakla\u015f\u0131k 1 saat s\u00fcrd\u00fc ve belki de hayat\u0131m\u0131n en zor saatlerinden biriydi. \u0130lk tepedeki d\u00fczl\u00fc\u011fe ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131mda hissetti\u011fim yorgunluk \u00e7ok fazlayd\u0131 ama mutlulu\u011fumsa bir o kadar daha fazlayd\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n D\u00fczl\u00fckte kamp t\u00fcp\u00fcmle kendime s\u0131cak bir kahve yapt\u0131m ve sabah erken saatlerde y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe ba\u015flay\u0131p geri d\u00f6nen insanlarla sohbet ettim. \u00d6n\u00fcmde beni bekleyen yakla\u015f\u0131k 9 kilometrelik yol vard\u0131. Yol dedi\u011fime bakmay\u0131n asl\u0131nda d\u00fczg\u00fcn bir patika yoktu. Etrafta s\u00fcrekli k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 oklarla i\u015faretlenmi\u015f ta\u015flar ve k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 renkli T harfi i\u00e7eren kayalar olmasa yolu kaybetmek \u00e7ok kolayd\u0131. S\u0131rt\u0131mdaki 17 kilograml\u0131k y\u00fckten midir yoksa yorgunluktan m\u0131d\u0131r bilemiyorum ancak kendimi kaplumba\u011fa h\u0131z\u0131nda ilerliyormu\u015fum gibi hissediyordum. Patikada yol almaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rken s\u0131rt\u0131nda kocaman s\u0131rt \u00e7antas\u0131 ve \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131yla ilerlemeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan Fas as\u0131ll\u0131 Frans\u0131z Soufiane\u2019ye denk geldim ve birlikte y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fcp kamp yapmaya karar verdik. Hedefimiz hava kararmadan Trolltunga\u2019ya var\u0131p ard\u0131ndan geri d\u00f6n\u00fcp \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 kurmakt\u0131. Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fcz s\u0131ras\u0131nda o kadar g\u00fczel manzaralar e\u015flik ediyordu ki y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe s\u0131k s\u0131k ara verip uzun uzun manzaran\u0131n keyfini s\u00fcr\u00fcyorduk. Ancak havan\u0131n gittik\u00e7e kararmaya ba\u015flamas\u0131 ve kara bulutlar\u0131n \u00fczerimize do\u011fru \u00e7\u00f6kmeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f\u0131yla Trolltunga\u2019ya 2,5 km. kala d\u00fczl\u00fckte bir kayan\u0131n kenar\u0131na \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 kurmaya karar verdik. \u00c7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 kurur kurmaz bast\u0131ran \u015fiddetli sa\u011fanak y\u00fcz\u00fcnden \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131zdan bir daha \u00e7\u0131kamad\u0131k ve yorgunlu\u011fun etkisiyle erkenden uyuduk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Yakla\u015f\u0131k 1200 metre y\u00fckseklikte, evlerimizden \u00e7ok uzaklarda, bir da\u011f\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda yan yana 2 \u00e7ad\u0131rda bir geceyi ya\u011fan sa\u011fanak ya\u011fmurda ge\u00e7irdik. Sabah erken saatlerde kalk\u0131p \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 oldu\u011fu yerde b\u0131rakarak kalan 2,5 kilometreyi h\u0131zl\u0131ca y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fck. Asl\u0131nda o kadar y\u00fckseklikteki bir daha, o ya\u011fmurda kimsenin \u00e7\u0131kaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fcyorduk ama yol boyu 3-4 tane daha \u00e7ad\u0131r g\u00f6r\u00fcnce\u00a0 \u2018yaln\u0131z de\u011filmi\u015fiz asl\u0131nda\u2019 dedik. Yaz g\u00fcnlerinde insanlar\u0131n tek ba\u015f\u0131na foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekilebilmek i\u00e7in s\u0131ra bekledi\u011fi Trolltunga\u2019da, da\u011f ba\u015f\u0131nda yapayaln\u0131zd\u0131k. Ya\u011fan ya\u011fmurun etkisiyle h\u0131zl\u0131ca foto\u011fraflar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 \u00e7ekip biraz da manzaray\u0131 izledikten sonra \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131za do\u011fru geri y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flad\u0131k. Trolltunga\u2019n\u0131n manzaras\u0131ndan \u00e7ok yol boyu g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz manzaralar\u0131 tercih ederim asl\u0131nda. Trolltunga \u00e7ok \u00fcnlenmi\u015f olabilir, \u00e7ok g\u00fczel bir foto\u011fraf\u0131n\u0131z olabilir ama yol boyu g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz manzaralar \u00e7ok daha \u00f6zelleriydi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \u00c7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131za geri var\u0131p h\u0131zl\u0131ca bir kahvalt\u0131 ettikten sonra toparlan\u0131p geri y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe ba\u015flad\u0131k. Yol boyu biz geri inerken sabah\u0131n erken saatlerinde a\u015fa\u011f\u0131dan y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flayan insanlara denk gelmeye ba\u015flad\u0131k. Geri d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f yolculu\u011fumuzda t\u0131rmanmam\u0131z gibi yava\u015ft\u0131, s\u00fcrekli durup foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekiliyorduk. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc bu sefer ya\u011fan bir ya\u011fmur yoktu. Sabah\u0131n erken saatlerinde ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yolculu\u011fumuz, yol \u00fczerinde onlarca kez durdu\u011fumuz i\u00e7in, \u00f6\u011flen 2 gibi Skjeggedal\u2019daki park 2 alan\u0131nda sonlan\u0131yordu. Park 2 den h\u0131zl\u0131ca \u00f6nce Tyssedal k\u00f6y\u00fcne oradan Odda kasabas\u0131na ula\u015ft\u0131m ve kendimi buldu\u011fum ilk hostele att\u0131m. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc 6 g\u00fcnd\u00fcr du\u015f almam\u0131\u015ft\u0131m ve s\u00fcrekli \u00e7ad\u0131rda yatm\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. S\u0131cak du\u015f ihtiyac\u0131m \u00e7ok fazlayd\u0131. Yol arkada\u015f\u0131msa Odda\u2019dan Bergen\u2019e ge\u00e7ip oradan u\u00e7akla \u0130zlanda\u2019ya do\u011fru yol ald\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Trolltunga hakk\u0131nda k\u0131sa \u00f6zet bilgiler vermek gerekirse; orman i\u00e7i patikadan ba\u015flayan yol 11 km, ana park alan\u0131ndan ba\u015flayan yol 14 km, e\u011fer araban\u0131z\u0131 Park 3\u2019e b\u0131rakabilirseniz yol 11 kilometreye k\u0131sal\u0131yor. Orman\u0131n i\u00e7inden gelen patika ile araba yolu olarak ba\u015flayan yol ilk d\u00fczl\u00fckte birle\u015fiyorlar. Orman i\u00e7i patikay\u0131 tercih ederseniz ger\u00e7ekten zorlu bir ilk kilometre sizi bekliyor ancak buna de\u011fer. Yolda y\u00fcr\u00fcmek i\u00e7in g\u00fczel bir hiking ayakkab\u0131s\u0131 \u015fart. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc \u00e7o\u011funlukla araziden y\u00fcr\u00fcyorsunuz ve belirli bir yol yok. Kaybolma ihtimaliyse s\u0131f\u0131ra yak\u0131n yolda s\u00fcrekli k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 oklarla \u00e7izilmi\u015f y\u00f6nler mevcut ve kayalar\u0131n \u00fczerine b\u00fcy\u00fck\u00e7e i\u015faretlenmi\u015f T harfleri mevcut. Yakla\u015f\u0131k 200 metre rak\u0131mda ba\u015flayan yolculukta 1200 metrelere t\u0131rman\u0131yorsunuz, kondisyon \u015fart ancak yol boyunca 50\u2019li ya\u015flar\u0131n \u00fczerinde insanlar g\u00f6rd\u00fcm bu yolu y\u00fcr\u00fcyen. \u0130sterseniz siz de yapabilirsiniz. E\u011fer benim gibi \u00e7ad\u0131r kurmay\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fcyorsan\u0131z yolun ini\u015f \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f 28 kilometre oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcrsek sabah \u00e7ok erken saatlerde yola koyulman\u0131z geri d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcz i\u00e7in iyi olacakt\u0131r. Da\u011fda korunma ama\u00e7l\u0131 2 tane da\u011f kabini mevcut. Kap\u0131s\u0131 7\/24 a\u00e7\u0131k ve i\u00e7inde b\u00fcy\u00fck\u00e7e koltuklar var. Zor durumda kal\u0131rsan\u0131z s\u0131\u011f\u0131nabilirsiniz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Preikestolen<\/strong>, Norve\u00e7\u2019in en \u00e7ok ziyaret edilen kayas\u0131 olup y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fc di\u011ferlerine g\u00f6re daha kolayd\u0131r. Park alan\u0131na ula\u015f\u0131p oradan yakla\u015f\u0131k 4 kilometrelik y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f mesafesindedir. Yolun \u00e7o\u011fu yerinde ta\u015flardan y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f yolu yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. 270 metrelerden ba\u015flay\u0131p 600 metrelerdeki Preikestolen kayas\u0131na var\u0131nca Lysefjord <\/strong>manzaras\u0131n\u0131 doyas\u0131ya tadabiliyorsunuz. Preikestolen kayas\u0131na ula\u015fmak i\u00e7in Norve\u00e7\u2019in 3. b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehri, ayn\u0131 zamanda petrol merkezi olan Stavanger\u2019e ula\u015fman\u0131z laz\u0131m. Burada \u015fehir merkezinden kalkan Tau feribotuna binip Tau iskelesine varmal\u0131s\u0131n\u0131z ve bu iskeleden yar\u0131m saatte bir kalkan Preikestolen otob\u00fcsleriyle Preikestolen park alan\u0131na varabilirsiniz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Her t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f\u0131mda oldu\u011fu gibi Preikestolen park alan\u0131na \u00f6\u011fleden sonra vard\u0131m. Hedefim hava kararmadan daha \u00f6nce internette \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fim kayaya yakla\u015f\u0131k 1 kilometre mesafede yer alan d\u00fczl\u00fckte kamp yapmakt\u0131. Norve\u00e7\u2019ten ge\u00e7en bol y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fl\u00fc g\u00fcnlerin etkisinden olsa gerek kondisyonum gittik\u00e7e artm\u0131\u015ft\u0131, s\u0131rt\u0131mdaki \u00e7anta art\u0131k hafif geliyordu. Ya\u011fmur alt\u0131nda h\u0131zl\u0131ca \u00f6n\u00fcmdeki 4 kilometrelik yolu y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flad\u0131m. Bu sefer yol daha kolayd\u0131 ama yol boyu manzaralar\u0131 olduk\u00e7a k\u0131s\u0131tl\u0131yd\u0131. Son 1 kilometredeki d\u00fczl\u00fc\u011fe vard\u0131\u011f\u0131mda art\u0131k ya\u011fan ya\u011fmurun \u015fiddeti f\u0131rt\u0131naya ula\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Ya\u011fmur o kadar h\u0131zl\u0131yd\u0131 ki \u00fczerime d\u00fc\u015fen her ya\u011fmur par\u00e7ac\u0131\u011f\u0131 su ge\u00e7irmez k\u0131yafetlerime bir kur\u015fun edas\u0131yla saplan\u0131yordu. H\u0131zl\u0131ca karar vermeliydim. Ya o \u015fiddetli f\u0131rt\u0131nada daha fazla a\u00e7\u0131kta kal\u0131p \u0131slanmaya devam edecektim -evet \u0131slan\u0131yordum art\u0131k su ge\u00e7irmezlik kalmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131– ya da bir an \u00f6nce \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 kuracakt\u0131m. H\u0131zl\u0131ca etraf\u0131ma bak\u0131n\u0131p \u00e7ad\u0131r kuracak yer arad\u0131m ancak o d\u00fczl\u00fckte kuru bir yer kalmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131 her yer batakl\u0131\u011fa d\u00f6nm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. 5 dakika kadar etraf\u0131ma bak\u0131nd\u0131m art\u0131k enerjim t\u00fckeniyordu. Kuru bir par\u00e7a toprak buldum ve h\u0131zl\u0131ca \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 kurmaya ba\u015flad\u0131m. Esen r\u00fczgar o kadar \u015fiddetliydi ki \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131 zapt edebilmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olmuyordu. Son bir g\u00fc\u00e7le \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 dikmeyi ba\u015fard\u0131m ve \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131n i\u00e7ine girdim, ancak \u00fczerimde tek par\u00e7a kuru \u015fey kalmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. O anda b\u00fcy\u00fck tela\u015fa kap\u0131ld\u0131m; acaba \u00e7antam\u0131n i\u00e7indeki e\u015fyalar\u0131m da m\u0131 \u0131slakt\u0131? \u00d6nce \u00fczerimdekileri \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131m. Pasaportumun bir k\u0131sm\u0131 dahil olmak \u00fczere her \u015feyim \u0131slanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. \u00c7antay\u0131 a\u00e7t\u0131m ve uyku tulumumu \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131m, \u015f\u00fck\u00fcrler olsun ki uyku tulumum kuruydu. \u2018Bu gecede hayatta kalabildik\u2019 dedim kendi kendime. \u00c7antadan sadece uyku tulumum ve termal i\u00e7liklerim kuru kalm\u0131\u015f olarak \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131, geri kalan her \u015feyim \u0131slakt\u0131. Bu gecede hayatta kalabildik ama yar\u0131n gece i\u00e7in hi\u00e7bir \u015feyim kalmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. F\u0131rt\u0131na alt\u0131nda b\u00fct\u00fcn gece \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131m\u0131n i\u00e7ine \u015f\u0131p \u015f\u0131p ya\u011fmur damlad\u0131. Arada esen r\u00fczgar\u0131n etkisiyle \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131m\u0131n bir yar\u0131s\u0131 havalan\u0131yordu adeta. Gece birka\u00e7 kez uyand\u0131m. Gene bir da\u011f ba\u015f\u0131nda, bu sefer yapayaln\u0131z ve \u0131slak e\u015fyalarla bir ba\u015f\u0131mayd\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n Sabah uyand\u0131\u011f\u0131mda hava ayd\u0131nlanmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Islak k\u0131yafetlerimi geri giyip h\u0131zl\u0131ca \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 toplad\u0131m ve kalan son 1 kilometrelik yolu y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek Preikestolen kayas\u0131na vard\u0131m ve o foto\u011fraflarda g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm e\u015fsiz fiyort manzaras\u0131 tam kar\u015f\u0131mdayd\u0131. Ge\u00e7en zor geceyi ve \u00fczerimdeki \u0131p \u0131slak k\u0131yafetlerimi unutup manzaraya dald\u0131m. Bir s\u00fcre sonra yava\u015f yava\u015f insanlar gelmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. G\u00fcn\u00fcn ilk \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131yla y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe ba\u015flayan insanlar bir bir, kayaya ula\u015fmaya ba\u015fl\u0131yorlard\u0131. Foto\u011fraflar\u0131m\u0131 \u00e7ekildikten sonra h\u0131zl\u0131ca geri indim park alan\u0131na. Islak ve \u00fc\u015f\u00fcyen bir insand\u0131m art\u0131k. Gezimin son dura\u011f\u0131 olan Kjerag kayas\u0131na gitmekten vazge\u00e7ip otob\u00fcsle \u00f6nce Tau iskelesine gelip oradan feribotla Stavanger \u015fehrine gittim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Gezimin son dura\u011f\u0131 olan Kjerag kayas\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kabilmem do\u011fan\u0131n bana ya\u015fatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 f\u0131rt\u0131na y\u00fcz\u00fcnden belki m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olmad\u0131 ama bir g\u00fcn Kjerag i\u00e7in, muhakkak Norve\u00e7\u2019e tekrar yolum d\u00fc\u015fecektir. Preikestolen kayas\u0131 gerek uzakl\u0131\u011f\u0131 gerekse y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f konforunun daha y\u00fcksek olmas\u0131 nedeniyle, herkesin \u00e7ok kolay \u00e7\u0131kabilece\u011fi bir yer olup herkese sonuna kadar tavsiye ederim\u2026 Tabi, Lysefjord\u2019un o muhte\u015fem manzaras\u0131n\u0131 canl\u0131 g\u00f6zlerle g\u00f6rebilmek isteyenlere<\/p>\n\n\n\n Son olarak; belki bir kaya de\u011fil ama, Norve\u00e7\u2019e gelen herkesin u\u011framas\u0131 gerekti\u011fi bir yerden de bahsetmek istiyorum. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Tarihi Flamsbana treni\u2026<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Bergen<\/strong>\u2019den kalkan trenlerle da\u011flar\u0131n yamac\u0131nda birka\u00e7 evden ula\u015fan Myrdall<\/strong> k\u00f6y\u00fcne gelip (Myrdall\u2019a, sadece trenle ula\u015f\u0131m m\u00fcmk\u00fcn), buradan Flamsbana treniyle \u00e7ok g\u00fczel bir fiyort kenar\u0131nda bulunan Flam k\u00f6y\u00fcne ula\u015fabilirsiniz. Yakla\u015f\u0131k yar\u0131m saat s\u00fcren bu tren yolculu\u011funa \u00e7ok g\u00fczel bir manzara e\u015flik etmekte. Ya da benim yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m gibi, Myrdall\u2019dan Flam\u2019a kadar olan 22 kilometrelik yolu y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek Aurlandsfjord kenar\u0131nda bulunan kartpostallara konu olan Flam k\u00f6y\u00fcne<\/strong> gelebilirsiniz. Ben 22 kilometre y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fcm ancak hi\u00e7 s\u0131k\u0131lmad\u0131m, yorulmad\u0131m. <\/p>\n\n\n\n \u0130lkokul \u00e7a\u011flar\u0131m\u0131zda resim derslerimizde akan bir dere ve kenar\u0131na bir ev \u00e7izerdik ya, i\u015fte o evlerin ger\u00e7ekleri bana bu yolculukta e\u015flik ettiler. Bu arada, Flam\u2019a do\u011fru inen vadi Norve\u00e7\u2019in en derin vadilerinden biriymi\u015f\u2026 Burada, insan kafas\u0131n\u0131 her \u00e7evirdi\u011finde bamba\u015fka bir \u015felale g\u00f6z\u00fcne \u00e7arp\u0131yor. Derince bir vadi i\u00e7inde y\u00fcr\u00fcyen bir insan ve kafas\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7evirdi\u011fi her y\u00f6nde g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc onlarca \u015felale!<\/p>\n\n\n\n G\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fc kapatt\u0131k\u00e7a hala o anlar\u2026 Beni heyacanland\u0131r\u0131yorlar<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Son olarak; Norve\u00e7 do\u011fas\u0131yla, fiyortlar\u0131yla, insanlar\u0131yla, medeniyetiyle muhakkak herkesin g\u00f6rmesi gereken bir \u00fclke\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" NORVE\u00c7, y\u00fcr\u00fcyelim arkada\u015flar… Yazar: Samet Bayram K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck ya\u015flarda, ailesinin etkisiyle gezme tutkunu olan, lise y\u0131llar\u0131nda neredeyse t\u00fcm T\u00fcrkiye\u2019yi gezmi\u015f, 2010 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1599,"featured_media":1229,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[7,13],"tags":[73,94,95,99,139,150,172,188],"class_list":["post-1223","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-hobi","category-seyahat","tag-dagcilik","tag-flam-treni","tag-gezi","tag-hobi","tag-norvec","tag-reinebringen","tag-tatd","tag-yuruyus"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tatd.org.tr\/aciltipbulteni\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1223","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tatd.org.tr\/aciltipbulteni\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tatd.org.tr\/aciltipbulteni\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tatd.org.tr\/aciltipbulteni\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1599"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tatd.org.tr\/aciltipbulteni\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1223"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/tatd.org.tr\/aciltipbulteni\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1223\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tatd.org.tr\/aciltipbulteni\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1229"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tatd.org.tr\/aciltipbulteni\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1223"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tatd.org.tr\/aciltipbulteni\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1223"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tatd.org.tr\/aciltipbulteni\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1223"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"samet](\"http:\/\/acilbulten.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/SARI-1024x768.jpg\")
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